Chiang Mai

(เชียงใหม่) is the hub of Northern Thailand. With a population of over 170,000, it is Thailand's fifth-largest city. Located on a plain at an elevation of 316 m, surrounded by mountains and lush countryside, it is much greener and quieter than the capital, and has a cosmopolitan air and a significant expat population, factors which have led many from Bangkok to settle permanently in this "Rose of the North".
Founded in 1296 AD, the culturally rich city of Chiang Mai is the longest continuously inhabited settlement from the ancient days of Siam. Located amidst the rolling foot hills of the Himalayan Mountains 700 km north of Bangkok, it could only be reached by an arduous river journey or an elephant back trip until the 1920s, isolation which has helped keep Chiang Mai's distinctive charm intact to this day.
Chiang Mai's historical centre is the walled city (chiang in Thai, hence Chiang Mai - "New Walled City"). Sections of the wall remain at the gates and corners, but of the rest only the moat remains.
Inside Chiang Mai's remaining city walls are more than 30 temples dating back to the founding of the principality, in a combination of Burmese, Sri Lankan and Lanna Thai styles, decorated with beautiful wood carvings, Naga staircases, leonine and angelic guardians, gilded umbrellas and pagodas laced with gold filigree. The most famous is Doi Suthep, which overlooks the city from a mountainside 13 km away.
Modern-day Chiang Mai has expanded in all directions, but particularly to the east towards the Ping River (Mae Nam Ping), where Thanon Chang Klan, the famous Night Bazaar and the bulk of Chiang Mai's hotels and guesthouses are located. The locals say you've not experienced Chiang Mai until you've seen the view from Doi Suthep, eaten a bowl of kao soi, and purchased an umbrella from Bo Sang.

About Chiangmai

The city of Nophaburi Sri Nakorn Ping Chiangmai was auspiciously founded by King Mengrai in the early hours of April 12 1296. Chiangmai was intended to be the great new capital of the thriving Lanna Kingdom and indeed it was to become one of the most important cities in the region.
The square laid out was 1800m by 2000m, and in time a moat would be added to mark out the boundaries of Chiangmai and safeguard the people within. At each corner a bastion, each with cosmological significance, was built, while the four main gates located on each of the flanks faced towards the four points of the compass. Today these landmarks remain to form an overwhelmingly unique character of Chiangmai for which this historical city is famed for.
In those early days of Chiangmai the Ping river, to the east of the original settlement, was the primary focus of the valley and brought traders from China and beyond as well as providing water for the agriculture that has long been a mainstay of the local economy. Today visitors to Chiangmai come from all over the world, not as traders but tourists who admire the incredible history, relax among the beautiful nature and enjoy the famous Thai hospitality.
Over the centuries the Lanna kingdom grew in strength and Chiangmai became a wealthy centre. The many beautiful temples and chedis that still stand today are a legacy of Chiangmai's distinguished past, and a distinctive culture developed independently of the great kingdoms of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya that were to arise after the heyday of the Lanna kingdom.
Though Chiangmai may have been overrun by the Burmese and almost deserted at one time, the Lanna culture survived intact, passing down ancient traditions and skills. Modern Chiangmai relies heavily on its past, and a thriving handicraft industry based on timeless skills and methods has turned it into one of Thailand's shopping magnets.
Welcoming visitors is an art perfected in Chiangmai, and recent decades have seen the city emerge as one of Asia's most popular and best value destinations. People come to experience the beautiful mountainous scenery of Northern Thailand, go trekking, eat, drink, party, delve into history and seek out adventure. The quiet winding lanes of the old town, the rustic old wooden guest houses, lively riverside restaurants, colourful hill tribe folk and bustling night bazaar all contribute to make Chiangmai an unforgettable destination.

Chieng Mai facts

The city of Chieng Mai is considered to be Thailand's second most important city and one its largest. Despite this, it remains a tenth of the size of Bangkok, with an estimated 400,000 people living in the greater urban area of the city. A growing community of long stay foreign residents and tourists swell this figure by an estimated 100,000 during the tourist season.
Chieng Mai is located approximately 700kms north of Bangkok and 250kms south of the Myanmar border. It sits well within the tropics, located 18° north and is surrounded by mountain ranges which form the tail end of the Himalayan range.
Chieng Mai sits in a broad valley at an elevation of 330 metres above sea level. The valley is dissected by the Ping River - one of the four main tributaries of the great Chao Praya - and it runs roughly from north to south.
As much as 70 per cent of Chieng Mai province is covered in mountains and forests. Agriculture, mainly fruit, vegetables and some rice cultivation, is the mainstay of the local economy. In the past ten years, tourism has become an increasingly important economic growth point for the city. Other industry includes cottage industry, handicraft production, exporting, small scale business and manufacturing.
The city dates back to 1296 when it was founded as the new capital of the thriving Lanna Kingdom. Lanna (meaning 'a million rice fields') predates the kingdoms of Sukhothai and Ayuthaya and incorporated an area stretching from Chieng Sean, on the northern reaches of the Mekhong river, to Lamphun, just to the south of Chieng Mai. It is one of the few cities in the world that boasts a fully preserved square mile moat and, even today, the corner ramparts and restored gates remain.
Chieng Mai has been continuously inhabited for more than 700 years, but its fortunes have waxed and waned at the hands of invading armies from Laos, Central Thailand and Burma. From the pinnacle of its strength under King Mengrai (c.1300) to its submission as a vassal state under the Burmese in the mid 16th century, the city has managed to remain largely independent and was only formally included in the greater Thai Kingdom when the Lanna monarchy was extinguished early in the 20th century.

Chiang Mai history

The kingdom of Lanna, covering much of Northern Thailand, was a thriving state long before the rise of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya and Chiang Mai traces its history back more than 700 years, making it one of the most historic cities in Thailand.
In 1296 King Mengrai founded Nophaburi Sri Nakorn Ping Chiang Mai as the new capital of his thriving Kingdom known as Lanna (million rice fields). Previously he had ruled from Chiang Saen, then a important trading town on the banks of the Mekhong river, as well as at Fang and Chiang Rai, before moving southward and eventually overrunning the older state of Haripunchai (presently known as Lamphun, 50kms to the south of Chiang Mai). However, the first attempt to found a new city in the Ping valley was thwarted by the flooding of the river and the site was abandoned. Seven centuries later these ruins to the southeast of the city were uncovered and today form an important tourist history attraction in Chiang Mai, known as Wiang Khum Kham.
King Mengrai was a powerful and successful ruler and Lanna prospered under his rule (1259 to 1317). He formed a great friendship with King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai and King Ngam Muang of Phayao, enjoying considerable support from these allies in the face of the southward Mongol invasions which caused so much upheaval in Asia during the 13th century. The Mon, who had inhabited the valleys of the Ping, Wang and other rivers of the region since the 8th century, were absorbed into the Lanna kingdom, along with their culture and skills. Over time a distinctive people would emerge, known as Khon Mueng, with their own dialect of Thai language.
Lanna's new capital soon became an important cultural and religious centre and remained so for several centuries. The city was laid out over roughly a square mile, temples were built (Wat Chiang Man, dating back to the early 14th century, still remains and Wat Phra Singh followed in 1345), and the distinctive moat and bastions were added. The wealth of the kingdom left behind legacies such as Wat Suan Dawk, with its towering chedis and Wat Jet Yod, which was built for the Eight World Buddhist council in 1477.
Chiang Mai and the greater Lanna Kingdom reached its zenith under King Tilokarat in the middle of the 16th century, expanding east as far as present day Nan province, south to Sukhothai and as far north as the present Myanmar/China border. It was during his reign that Chedi Luang was completed, towering an astonishing 96 metres. Despite an earthquake in 1545, which brought it down to 42 metres, it remained the tallest structure in the city until the 1950s.
Between the 16th and 18th centuries Chiang Mai lacked effective leadership, which resulted in a series of invasions and occupations from Burma and Ayutthaya, and control of the city remained elusive to the people of Lanna for over 200 years, despite multiple attempts to recapture the city. At one point the city was even evacuated and nearly deserted. Control of Chiang Mai was briefly returned to the Northern Kingdom between 1727 and 1763, but was to be conquered by the Burmese one last time.
The period of Burmese occupation finally ended in 1774, when King Taksin (Rama I) of Thonburi (Bangkok) realised the necessity of driving the foreigners out of Lanna to prevent them from further attacking Siam. King Taksin sent forces under Chao Kawila, a jâo meuang (nobleman) from Lampang, to defeat the Burmese - an operation that was, at last, successful.
Following the capture of Chiang Mai, Taksin appointed Kawila as the city's viceroy. Under his leadership the city went from strength to strength, with the reconstruction (c. 1800) of the monumental brick walls that are still standing to this day, and the establishment of a river port at the end of what is today Thapae Road. During this period Chiang Mai entered into prosperous trade relations with Burma and China.
The earliest record of foreign visitors to Chiang Mai comes from a Mr Ralph Fitch, who recorded visiting a place called 'Jamahey' in his voyages from Goa to Pegu and beyond (1583 - 1591), remarking that is was 'a fair and great town'. In 1614, traders Thomas Samuel and Thomas Driver arrived in Chiang Mai (probably overland from Burma) as representatives of the East India Company.
By the 1850s the British had a firm grip on Burma and the Bowring treaty, negotiated between the Siamese crown and British Consulate in Bangkok gave British traders in Northern Thailand extra-territorial rights for teak logging along the Salween river in the Shan states. Towards the end of the century this was to drive a wedge between Bangkok and Chiang Mai as the British constantly pressured the Royal Siamese Government to force compensation out of the impoverished Chiang Mai Prince in return for lawlessness on the frontier. In fact in 1869, two years after the first missionaries arrived, some of their first Christian converts were clubbed to death, instigating a reaction from King Chulalongkorn.
As Siam modernised, Chiang Mai become less isolated from the rest of the Rattanakosin kingdom that now controlled much of the area of present day Thailand. Lanna had enjoyed a degree of autonomy, but with the arrival of a postal service (1883) and later telegraph and railway (1921) Chiang Mai found itself increasingly drawn into the politics of the entire country. Finally, after the bloodless revolution of 1932, Siam (it only became officially known as Thailand in 1949) ceased to be an absolute monarchy and Chiang Mai became a province of the country.
Caught up in the events of the era, Chiang Mai was to lose its true independent nature and innocence. Under Japanese occupation during WWII many Northern Thais were conscripted to build roads to open up the Asian interior, and the legacy of their toil remains today in the form of roads that penetrate impossible mountainous terrain, allowing today's visitors to truly appreciate the region.
However, the area hasn't always been welcoming and safe to foreigners. The succession of military governments during the fifties, sixties and seventies alienated many Northerners. After the student uprisings of 1973 were brutally put down, many took to the hills of Northern Thailand and formed a communist insurgency that rendered much of the rural areas unsafe. As the political theatre of the region gradually changed, these groups laid down their weapons in amnesty programmes during the 1980s and the area finally opened up to tourism.
The 1990s saw a spectacular boom for Chiang Mai as the tourist industry took off and many of Thailand's visitors began favouring the North for its laid back charm, mountainous beauty and value for money. It wasn't long before speculating Bangkok property developers marched in and snapped up the land.
In 1992 the city proudly celebrated its 700 year anniversary and hosted the Asian Games in 1998. Even the financial crash of 1997 hasn't stopped Chiang Mai from becoming a cosmopolitan centre in Thailand, attracting a sizeable ex-pat community and enough tourists to swell its population by up to a quarter each season. Despite all this, Chiang Mai retains its individual Lanna character and distinctive easy-going charm, making it unique among all Thai cities.

Getting to Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is about 800km north of Bangkok and a 90-minute journey by air. It is connected to Bangkok by rail as well as road, and has air connections to several international destinations.
There are several ways of getting to Chiang Mai, including bus, train and airplane. Bus is the cheapest but least comfortable. Many opt for the overnight sleeper train which takes longer, however, the introduction of cheap flights for as little as 1000 baht (£15/$20) one-way has diverted popularity.
Chiang Mai International Airport has connections to and from Bangkok, Phuket, Singapore, Luang Prabang, Taipei, Kunming, Rangoon, Mandalay and Chittakong, as well as domestic flights to Mae Hong Son and Chiang Rai. There are at least 30 flights a day between Chiang Mai and Bangkok on a variety of airlines, with the recent introduction of budget fares from AirAsia, Taksin Air and Orient Thai. These should be booked online at least three weeks in advance. Singapore Airlines flies to and from Chiang Mai on Sundays, Tuesdays and Fridays.

By plane

Chiang Mai International Airport

Chiang Mai is becoming an increasingly popular tourist destination and its international airport caters well to visitors, receiving 130 flights a week from Bangkok as well as Singapore, China, Taiwan, Myanmar and Laos. The airport is seldom crowded and has a full range of facilities on offer.
Located less than 10 minutes by taxi from the city centre, Chiang Mai International Airport has a single terminal to deal with both domestic and international flights. All check-in counters are located in the middle of the ground floor, while departures are upstairs on the mezzanine level. All arrivals exit into the lower level at the northern end of the building.
There is a travel agent at the airport and customer service desks for Thai Airways, Singapore Airlines, Bangkok Airways and a number of small airlines. The check-in area is seldom crowded. At least one exchange bureau is found in the terminal, offering reasonable rates, with an ATM on hand as well.
Chiang Mai Airport has several food outlets, including two coffee shops, a deli and a fast food outlet. There are also a number of small shops selling silk, handicrafts, fresh produce and souvenirs. On the mezzanine level, you will find a bookshop selling English language books and magazines.
Within the departure lounge there are additional food and merchandise shops, and a large screen television.
Getting from Chiang Mai Airport to the city is painless, there are plenty of tuk tuk and songtaew minibuses outside, charging 100 baht for a journey to most places in central Chiang Mai, although the journey back to the airport is only 50 baht.
There is ample, safe parking outside Chiang Mai Airport, costing 10 baht per hour. Hire cars can also be arranged from the airport.

Air Mandalay - from/to Myanmar
Bangkok Airways - to Ko Samui (flights from Ko Samui are indirect) and from/to Sukhothai; also Jinghong (China)
China Airlines - from/to Taipei, Taiwan
Hong Kong Express - from/to Hong Kong
Lao Aviation - from/to Laos
Nok Air - from/to Bangkok, Mae Hong Son & Udon Thani One-Two-Go (part of Orient Thai Airlines ) from/to Bangkok
SGA - from/to Chiang Rai (once daily) and Pai (once daily)
Silk Air - from/to Singapore
Thai Airways - from/to Bangkok and Mae Hong Son; also Kunming (China); in addition, flights from and/or to Phuket & possibly Nan may also be available seasonally
Tiger Airways - from/to Singapore

By bus

Buses to Chiang Mai leave from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Moh Chit). The cheapest, non-aircon, stop-everywhere government buses take around 12 hours; non-stop VIP 24-seaters manage the trip in 9 hours on a good day. Chiang Mai also has good bus connections to practically everywhere in the North, and major destinations/hubs in the North-East (Isaan); there's even a direct service to Pattaya and Rayong in the East.

By train

Various rapid, express and sleeper services leave from Bangkok's Hualamphong Train Station, taking 12-15 hours depending on the service selected. Sprinter trains are entirely second class air-con, have no sleeper berths, and are the only ones which cannot transport bicycles. Daytime trains are entirely second and third class, with no sleeper berths; the first "overnight" train of the day departs Chiang Mai at 2:50PM and arrives in Bangkok at 5:30AM.
The overnight trains - especially second class sleeper berths - are very popular, safe, comfortable and fun, and good value too - sleeper fares start at 531 baht for an upper berth in a 2nd class fan carriage. 2nd class lower berths are slightly more expensive than, but also slightly wider than, upper berths; air-con is of course a little more expensive than non-aircon. Those who wish to avoid sharing the relatively basic second class "bathroom" facilities can book a private first class two-berth cabin (the attendant cleans the first class bathrooms frequently).
Tickets can be purchased up to 60 days in advance; advance booking is advisable year-round, but especially between November and March - see SRT timetables and prices.
SRT charges 90 baht to transport a bicycle between Bangkok and Chiang Mai.

By tuk-tuk or samlor

Tuk-tuks serve as Chiang Mai's taxis, going point to point for 30 baht and up depending on your skills. A few three-wheeled bicycles (samlor) still cruise the streets and will go your way for the same price, which is a great way to see the inner city temples. Try taking a samlor from Wat Prasing Temple to Wat Chedi Luang Temple in the early evening around sunset, or around the inner city at sunrise to see the monks walking around with their bowls collecting alms from the citizens.

By taxi

Chiang Mai has finally introduced Bangkok-style metered taxis. In early 2005 there were only 15 plying the streets (versus 2700 songthaews), but one year later there were over 45, with the number growing monthly. Rates are very reasonable at 30 baht for the first 2 km and 4 baht/km after that, however it's very hard to persuade the driver to use the meter. Dial +66 53-279291 for advance bookings, which are particularly useful when going to the airport (100 baht flat fare).

By motorcycle

Chiang Mai has an abundance of motorcycle rental services, with choices aplenty. Typical Asian motorbikes can be rented, such as Honda and Yamaha 110cc and 125cc models (both step-through and automatic), but off-road bikes and larger street bikes can also be found quite easily. Renting a small bike starts at around 200 baht/day with insurance; larger machines can climb to 800 baht/day for a V-twin chopper or large sport-bike, also with insurance. Expect discounts when renting for several days. Passports are usually taken as a deposit, although some shops will accept a photocopy with a cash deposit of a few thousand baht. As with any other tourist town in Thailand (except possibly in Bangkok), a valid international permit (IDP) isn't required by the rental shop; however, if you find yourself stopped by the police for whatever reason, be prepared to discreetly pay a small "mai pen rai" fee of at least 200 baht.

By bicycle

Within the old city walls biking is still an easy option to get around. You can get everywhere in town within 10 minutes and it saves the hassle of negotiating with tuk-tuk drivers all the time. Bikes rentals are offered at every other street corner, and for a simple bike start from 30 baht/day. You can pick up quality bikes for a comforatble ride at "Crank Tavern" near Chiang Mai Gate. They run well-organised tours in the mountains around Chiang Mai as well. See for a detailed map.

Chiang Mai tourist information

"Stay longer and Chiang Mai will leave you enchanted"
Visitors to Chiang Mai often stay longer than planned, simply because the atmosphere is so relaxing, the facilities cheap and the options for entertainment and activity numerous.
In Chiang Mai, tourist information can be picked up at one of the many tour operators about town. For a town of only 300,000 there is a surprisingly large variety of activities to keep you busy and sight seeing is perhaps the most popular, with numerous exquisite temples as well as historic ruins in this 700-year-old city. Plenty of friendly Thais are always on hand to show you their city.
Information on activities for tourists can be found in the numerous Chiang Mai magazines that are freely available, such as Guidelines, Good Morning Chiang Mai and Citylife. Several swimming pools are found throughout the city, as well as fitness gyms and tennis courts. Chiang Mai tourists also benefit from some superb golf courses which hire clubs and have reasonable green fees. However, there are plenty more activities and sports to suit all.
One of the biggest activities is shopping, with great deals to be had at the famous night bazaar. By day you can visit the handicraft centres at San Kamphaeng, Borsang and Baan Tawai.
Before leaving you simply have to take a course. Learn how to cook delicious spicy food, or the fine art of Thai massage. Perhaps you may wish to enter into a meditation retreat at selected temples.
Finally, Thais love to enjoy themselves, and Chiang Mai is loaded with restaurants and bars, clustered in the centre of town and offering all sorts of delicious Thai and foreign food, as well as beer and good cheer!

Temples

Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai show off a mixture of architectural styles that reflect the varied heritage of Northern Thailand. Elements from Lanna Thai, Burmese, Sri Lankan and Mon temples have all been used in one form or another. Intricate woodcarvings and protective Naga serpent staircases add a flamboyance that reflects an awesome reverence for the Buddhist religion. Gilded umbrellas, guardian figures from the tales of the Ramayana and stupas trimmed with gold filigree combine to heighten the overall effect.
To date, there have been some 300 temples constructed in Chiang Mai and its outskirts. Visitors should take the time to visit the most revered temples in the city, built during the noble Lanna Thai dynasty. The largest ones draw crowds, but it's well worth wandering off the beaten path and finding a temple not on the tour bus circuit.
The Thai patrons of Chiang Mai's temples are pleased to see that visitors take an interest in the images and traditions of Lord Buddha's teachings. All that they ask is that temple visitors show respect by wearing appropriate attire (long pants for men, modest tops and skirts for women, no bare shoulders and women must wear a brassier) so that monks and worshippers will not be offended within the sacred temple grounds.

Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep

Established in 1383, this magnificent temple overlooks the city from its 1,073m elevation on the slopes of Doi (Mount) Suthep, which peaks at 1,685m. It is famous for its large gold-plated chedi, visible from the city on a good clear day. Although Wat Doi Suthep is the most recently built of the temples dating from the Lanna Thai period, it is the symbol of Chiang Mai. The site was selected by sending an elephant to roam at will up the mountainside.
When it reached this spot, it trumpeted, circled three times,and knelt down - which was interpreted as a sign indicating an auspicious site. Entrance to the temple is free for those who wish to climb the 300-plus steps; alternatively, there's a cable car with a 50 baht fare for foreigners. Clearly marked songthaews to Doi Suthep leave from Pratu Chang Phuak, passing Chiang Mai University and the zoo on the way. Prices are fixed at 40 baht up and 30 baht down; the drivers wait until they have sufficient (up to 8) passengers before they depart.
The trip takes about 30 minutes one way. Alternatively, the 18km journey from town can be made by motorcycle or a bicycle with appropriate gearing. The final 12km from the zoo onwards is entirely uphill and will take 60-90 minutes if cycling.

Wat Phra Singh

in the centre of the city at the intersection of Singharaj and Rajdamnern Road (west end) and is probably Chiang Mai's best-known temple, housing the Phra Singh image, completed between 1385 and 1400. Of particular note historically is Wihaan Lai Kham in the back, featuring Lanna-style temple murals and intricate gold patterns on red lacquer behind the altar. The large chedi was built in 1345 by King Pha Yu to house the remains of his father King Kam Fu. A typical scripture repository is located at this temple as well. These repositories were designed to keep and protect the delicate sa or mulberry paper sheets used by monks and scribes to keep records and write down folklore. The high stucco-covered stone base of the repository protected the delicate scriptures from the rain, floods and pests. The walls of the chapel are covered with murals illustrating Lanna customs, dress, and scenes from daily life. The lovely Lai Kam chapel houses the revered Phra Singh Buddha image. Sadly, the head was stolen in 1922, and a reproduction is now seen.

Wat Chiang Mun

Rajpakinai Road. The oldest temple in the city. Presumed to date from the year Chiang Mai was founded (1296), it is famed for two Buddha images, which according to legend are 1800 and 2500 years old. King Mengrai allegedly lived here while the city of Chiang Mai was being constructed. Enshrined in Wat Chiang Mun is a tiny crystal Buddha called Pra Seh-Taang Kamaneeee, which is thought to have the power to bring rain. Another image, called Phra Sila Khoa, reflects the fine workmanship of Indian craftsmen from thousands of years ago.

Wat Chedi Luang

Prapokklao Road. Located directly in Chiang Mai centre, this is the site of a formerly massive pagoda that was unfortunately destroyed in the great earthquake of 1545. The temple was originally constructed in 1401 on the orders of King Saeng Muang Ma. In 1454, reigning King Tilo-Garaj enlarged the chedi (pronounced jedee) to a height of 86 meters. After the earthquake, the chedi lay in ruins until 1991-92, during which time it was reconstructed at a cost of several million baht. A magnificent testament to Lanna (northern Thai) architecture and art, it is now every bit as impressive as it was when it was first built, and one of Chiang Mai's top tourist attractions. Wat Chedi Luang is also home to the "Pillar of the City", a totem used in ancient Thai fertility rites.

Wat Phra Jao Mengrai

off Ratchamankha Road (near Heuan Phen). An atmospheric wooden temple away from the beaten track, quiet and gently crumbling in the absence of tourist hordes.

Wat Oo-Mong

off Suthep Road. An ancient temple in the forest just outside Chiang Mai. King Mengrai built this temple for a highly respected forest monk who liked to wander in the countryside, hence the isolated location where the monk could stay quietly and meditate. It is unusual in that it has tunnel-like chambers in the ground, some of the walls of which still have the original paintings of birds and animals visible.

Wat Ram Poeng

Tambon Suthep, Amphoe Muang (4 miles south-west of the city) +66 53-278620. Offers facilities for retreats and meditation instruction.

Wat Suan Dok

Th Suthep, Chiang Mai (1/2 a mile west of the Old City Moat), +66 53-278967. Has a meet and greet for tourists and monks, every Monday, Wednesday and Friday afternoon between 15:00 and 17:00 hrs. Also, you can sign up for a 24-hrs introduction meditation retreat.

Wat Umong

Tambon Suthep, Amphoe Muang (3 and a half miles out of town) +66 53-277248 (08:30-16:00), Offers meditation courses and Dharma instruction in English every Sunday 15:00-18:00.

Museums

Chiang Mai City Arts & CulturalCenter

This fully modernised multimedia history and cultural education centre is located in the very centre of the old city on Prapokklao Road between Rajdumnern Road and Rajwithee Road. If travelling by tuk-tuk or songthaew, it's easiest to ask for the "Three Kings Monument" (Saam Kasat); it's the large, elegant white building just behind the statue.
Guides dressed in elegant traditional Thai clothing will usher you into an air-conditioned room to watch an English-subtitled orientation video about Chiang Mai and the north. Next, you will be pointed to a series of rooms documenting the region's history and culture in chronological order from the pre-Muang period (7,000-12,000 years ago) to the early river civilizations, to the early kings through the wars with the Burmese and the last dynasty, to the city today and its plans for the future. Other rooms are devoted to Buddhism and other regional beliefs, agricultural history, hill tribe peoples and other regional cultures, and a run-down of the royal dynasties. The exhibits consist of a smart visual mix of video, scale models, enlarged photos, wall murals and text in Thai and English. The museum is open 8:30AM-5PM except Mondays. Admission is 90 baht. +66 53-217793

Hilltribe Research Institute Museum

Founded in 1965 as a result of a proposal by the noted anthropologist Prof. W.R. Geddes, who was doing research with the hilltribe peoples at the time, the Institute Museum offers exhibits concerning the lives and cultures of nine hilltribe peoples in Thailand: the Akha, Lahu, Lisu, Yao, Hmong, Karen, Lua, Khamu, and H'tin. Also included are a non-hilltribe ethnic minority, the Mlabri, associated by some with the 'spirit of the yellow leaves'. The Mlabri population has dwindled to only approximately 180 individuals at present.
The daily lives of the various hilltribe peoples are illustrated through exhibits of photographs, agricultural implements, household utensils, artefacts associated with the various traditional religions, musical instruments, and ethnic costumes. Some exhibits include models dressed in complete traditional costumes depicting daily activities, such as a Hmong family having a meal or a Lisu man serenading his sweetheart.
The Institute has established a new museum in a three-story pavilion located on the attractively landscaped grounds of Ratchamangkala Park (Suan Lor Gao) on Chotana Road, just a fifteen minute drive from the city centre. At present the museum is open weekdays 9AM-4PM, with a slide and video show available daily 10AM-2PM. Special group tours at weekends are possible with advance notice. For more information contact the Hilltribe Institute Museum, Chotana Road +66 53-210872 / +66 53-211933

Chiang Mai Numismatic Museum

(Treasury Hall), 52 Ratchadamnoen Road, tel: 053-22 4237/8. M-Sa 9AM-3:30PM.

Chiang Mai University Art Museum

corner of Suthep and Nimmanhaemin Roads, tel: 053-944833. Tue-Sun 9AM-5PM (free).

Museum of World Insects and Narural Wonders

Srimankalajarn Road, Soi 13 (midway between Suithep and Huay Kaew roads near Suan Dok Hospital); tel: 053-211891. One of Asia's most unusual museums housing butterflies, beetles and beyond. Daily 9AM-5PM (200 baht).

Postal Museum

at Mae Ping Post Office, (1-2 km south of Wat Phra Singh). Tu-Sa 08:30-16:30 (free).
Art Galleries and Exhibitions
There are many art galleries and exhibitions in Chiang Mai, featuring contemporary artwork of both local Thai and Myanmar artists.

Elephant Nature Park

Approximately 60km north of Chiang Mai. This is a sanctuary for rescued and distressed elephants. They are not here to perform or do tricks but people visiting here will leave with a whole new understanding of these magnificent creatures.

Maesa Elephant Camp

119/9 Tapae Road, Muang District, +66 53-206247 or +66 53-206248, An elephant camp in the hills about a half hour's drive north of the city center. It has an elephant show, which includes elephants playing football and painting. You can also take half hour or one hour elephant rides. Not exactly a place to bring a PETA activist, but many do enjoy the performances.

Bhuping Palace

is located on the same road beyond Doi Suthep (22 km from town). This royal winter palace has lavishly landscaped gardens and is open to the public daily 08:30-11:30 & 13:00-15:00 when the Thai royal family is not in residence. 50 baht for foreigners, 20 baht for locals, 10 baht for children.

Chiangmai Zoo

at the foot of Doi Suthep, Home to over 7,000 animals in a wooded natural environment. Its popularity was boosted recently when it received a pair of Giant Pandas from Sichuan, China.

Chiang Mai entertainment

Leisure and entertainment are two certain priorities among the people of Chiang Mai. Thailand's northern capital is a tourist town, but it is also home to 300,000 people, many of whom prefer a laid-back lifestyle focused on meeting and eating with friends, enjoying nature, taking it easy and partying with visitors.
Without losing its ancient charm, Chiang Mai has provided a myriad of simple entertainment options for its visitors and locals. This isn't Las Vegas, but rather a very quaint town comprising of numerous restaurants and bars, a number of discos, movie houses, bowling alleys and fun sports, cultural shows, museums and nature activities.
Chose from a range of luxurious hotels to suit all budgets and tastes or opt for a simple guest house tucked away out of sight in the Old Town. Outside of Chiang Mai are several excellent resorts and spas set among tropical jungle or rice paddies.
Enjoy an evening of live music as you tuck into an abundant spread of Thai curries and snacks at the popular riverside restaurants, or catch a quiet bite to eat at a small noodle shop down a quiet lane. Afterwards, head to the lively bars on Moon Muang road or go shopping at the Night Market.
One unique way to absorb the classic northern culture is to attend a Khantoke dinner. Exclusive to Chiang Mai, they are enchanting evenings of Thai cultural dance and music, with northern specialities enjoyed at lap level, all within a stunning traditional giant teak pavilion.

Restaurants in Chiang Mai

"Stay longer and Chiang Mai will leave you enchanted"

Visitors to Chiang Mai often stay longer than planned, simply because the atmosphere is so relaxing, the facilities cheap and the options for entertainment and activity numerous.

In Chiang Mai, tourist information can be picked up at one of the many tour operators about town. For a town of only 300,000 there is a surprisingly large variety of activities to keep you busy and sight seeing is perhaps the most popular, with numerous exquisite temples as well as historic ruins in this 700-year-old city. Plenty of friendly Thais are always on hand to show you their city.

Information on activities for tourists can be found in the numerous Chiang Mai magazines that are freely available, such as Guidelines, Good Morning Chiang Mai and Citylife. Several swimming pools are found throughout the city, as well as fitness gyms and tennis courts. Chiang Mai tourists also benefit from some superb golf courses which hire clubs and have reasonable green fees. However, there are plenty more activities and sports to suit all.

One of the biggest activities is shopping, with great deals to be had at the famous night bazaar. By day you can visit the handicraft centres at San Kamphaeng, Borsang and Baan Tawai.

Before leaving you simply have to take a course. Learn how to cook delicious spicy food, or the fine art of Thai massage. Perhaps you may wish to enter into a meditation retreat at selected temples.

Finally, Thais love to enjoy themselves, and Chiang Mai is loaded with restaurants and bars, clustered in the centre of town and offering all sorts of delicious Thai and foreign food, as well as beer and good cheer!

Dress Code: You are in a tropical country so daytime wear of shorts, T-shirt, etc. is quite OK; however you'll earn bonus points if you look clean and tidy. Thai people (even the poorest) take pride in personal cleanliness and appearance (look at school kids and college students) so the "unkempt" style of some visitors is not appreciated. In the evenings long trousers (dress or skirt for ladies) with a neat shirt/blouse, shoes with socks for men and nice shoes for women (no flip-flops) are a must if you wish to enter a nice restaurant and get a good seat. The nicer you dress the better the table and service. If not you might get a table next to the bathroom, in a corner away from the view or in front of a loud music speaker.

Chanchao's Chiang Mai Food Review is a good source of information on the fast-changing culinary scene, though it has not been updated for some time.

Budget

Thai:

Anusarn Market, Chang Khlan Road (same side of road as "Galare Food Centre" but much further up beyond Loi Kroh crossroad towards Sri Dornchai) is a busy outdoor night market with lots of little Thai restaurants and food vendors. Great atmosphere.

Brick Road Cafe, Ratchadamneon Road (about 200 metres after the 2nd crossroads on the main walking street from Thapae Gate to Wat Phra Singh). English-Thai run cafe with a relaxed atmosphere and extensive Thai menu, produced by experienced Thai chefs, plus a host of excellent low-priced Western options.

Galare Food Centre, Chang Khlan Road (opposite the Night Bazaar Building), has a large open-air food court, featuring free Thai classical dance performances nightly. All food is paid for with coupons; most mains 20-50 baht.

Kuaytiaw Reua Koliang, Moon Muang Road (near Ratchamankha Road; no English sign) serves authentic kuaytiow reua (literally "boat noodles", rice noodles in dark broth with beef). It's good stuff anyway at 25 baht a pop.

Ratana’s Kitchen, Tha Pae Road (near Tha Pae Gate), has a wide range of Thai dishes at low prices (30-60 baht for many) and a huge vegetarian selection.

Re-Feel Café, 48/4-5 Rachavithi Road offers great (cheap) Thai food, good atmosphere, friendly staff and free billiards.

Western:

Fish'N'chips Shop, Ratchawitee Road +66 53-418210. Fresh, crispy. The name says it all.

Mike's Hamburger Stand, on the corner of Chaiyapoom Road and Chang Moi Road (along the east side of the moat) and on Nimmanhaemin Road (across from Soi 1) are brightly-lit, "old-school" joints - just stools and a counter in an open shop. OK hamburgers for 60 baht, excellent onion rings. If you're tired of rice and noodles this is nice place to stop for lunch while walking around town, and an even better place to fill your stomach on the way home from the bars. Bacon, or ham and egg sandwiches on the breakfast menu. Open 09:00-15:00. The franchise now includes a shop in the Anusarn Market (see above) with others opening in Bangkok soon.

Woody's Fine Fast Food, 56 Chaiyapoom Road. Half-way between Thapae Gate and Spicy Pub, next to the 7/11. Serves Kebabs (Gyros), Hamburgers, Hot Dogs, Falafel, Chips (Fries), Beer, Whisky, Wine and Soft Drinks. Tasty food, quality ingredients, cheap prices. Hygenic, friendly and attractive small diner and bar. Stays open after most other bars and restaurant have closed. Open 5pm to late.

Huen Phen, 112 Ratchamankha Road, specialises in Northern Thai food, and is popular with Thais and foreigners alike. Lunch in the air-conditioned hall is decent enough, but dinner in the profusely decorated old house in the back is little short of magical. Best of all is the price: a bowl of khanom jiin naam ngiaw (Shan-style pork rib noodles), a plate of som tum (green papaya salad) and some sticky rice will still leave you change from 50 baht! Open daily 08:00-15:00 & 17:00-22:00.

Just Kao Soy - a reasonably priced restaurant with excellent kao soy and vegetarian curry broth.

Amazing Sandwich, 20/2 Huay Kaew Road (north-west corner of the moat, opposite the Chiang Mai Orchid Hotel; plus two other locations) choose from a million and one items on their list and they'll build a sandwich for you your way. The also serve breakfasts and have bagels. Open daily 08:00-20:00 (Sunday close 16:00).

Chiang Mai Kebab, 69/4 Kotchasarn Road +66-71881832 - chicken, beef kebab, salad, Pita bread, falafel, samosa, vegetarian. 17:00-midnight.

El Toro Restaurant & Pub, 5/2 Loi Kroh Road. New Mexico style Mexican food at its finest prepared by experienced cook. Free food 17:00-19:00 every Friday.

O'Malley's Irish Restaurant, Anusarn Market, 149-14/15 Changklan Road +66 53-271921 - international cuisine and Guinness on tap.

The Dukes +66 53-249231 is located 50 meters north of the Tourism Authority of Thailand office at 49/4-5 Chiang Mai - Lumpoon Road, south of the Narawat bridge on the east side of the Ping River. Excellent American style dishes and desserts - ribs, burgers, pizza, cheesecake, etc. Full bar with local and imported beers and wines. Great family atmosphere, no loud music or entertainment, just good food.

The Meeting Restaurant & Café, 6/1 Soi 1, Kotchasarn Road. Have a talk with the friendly managers. Closed Sundays.

Kosher:

Kosher Restaurant, 89/15 Changklan Road (100 m from Empress hotel).

Vegetarian:

Khun Churn, 120/2 Nimmanhemin Road, Soi 7 +66 53-224124 - Thai vegetarian. Open 09:30-14:30 & 17:30-22:00, closed the 16th of every month.

Splurge

Thai:

When you come to Chiang Mai you should try a traditional Khantoke dinner and show. This is not just for tourists as the Northern Thai people have been enjoying the Khantoke dinner for centuries. There are also many garden restaurants where you can enjoy an excellent Thai meal in a beautiful setting.

Baan Rom Mai Garden Restaurant

Changklan Plaza, 191/12 Changklan Road +66 53-820031 /2. Open daily 10:00-midnight.

Galae Garden Restaurant, at the end of Suthep Road +66 53-278655 / +66 53-811041 - Doi Suthep foothill location at edge of a sparkling reservoir. Thai & Northern Thai food and grilled specialties in delightful outdoors.

Khum Khantoke, in Chiang Mai Business Park +66 53-304121 - be entertained while you dine on traditional North Thailand Cuisine. Reservations are a good idea to get a good seat. Family style all you can eat 350 baht. Nightly 19:00-22:00.

Le Grand Lanna Garden Restaurant, 51/3 Sankampaeng Road +66 53-262569 is a must see for its architectural teak splendor. Open daily.

Old Chiang Mai Culture Center 185/3 Wualai Road +66 53-275097 - the first commercial Khantoke Dinner in Chiang Mai more than 30 years ago. They have the best Northern Thai food of any of the Kantoke establishments however the seating, show and music are not as good as at Khum Khantoke. Nightly 19:00-21:30.

Palaad Tawanron Garden Restaurant

on a reservoir. Thai and English food. Wat Fai Hin behind CHiang Mai University, Suthep Road +66 53-216576 / +66 53-216039.

Saenkham Terrace Garden Restaurant, Clubhouse Ban Naifan 2, 199/163 T. Maehea +66 53-838990 - open daily 11:00-22:00.

Western:

Alois Bavarian Restaurant, Soi 8, Phrapoklao Road +66 53-278515 - authentic Bavarian specialties - open Tue-Sun, 11:30-23:00.

Arcobaleno Italian Restaurant (in front of Watket Temple), ☎ ''+66 53''-306254,. Open lunch & dinner.

Fillmore East Bar & Grill, Charernrasd Road +66 53-262416 - seating on two dining terraces facing Mae Ping river. Delicious USDA Beef, lamb, veal, chops, burgers. Excellent homemade deserts such as pecan, pumpkin and apple pie with large choice of toppings. The bar is separate from the riverside dining area so you can enjoy a romantic dinner in peace.

Piccola Roma Palace Italian Restaurant, at corner of Charoenprathet Road & Sri Donchai Road near Chiang Mai Plaza Hotel +66 53-820297 / +66 53-271256 - open lunch & dinner. An unforgettable dining experience amid beautiful surroundings. Serving residents over 15 years.

The House, 199 Moonmuang Road +66 53-419011 - old 1930's colonial style house in town center. Pacific rim & fusion food. Open 18:00.

The Mango Tree Café, 8/2-3 Loi Kroh Road +66 53-208292 - open 07:00-22:30. Top quality Thai & Western cuisine. Sunday Roast Lamb.

Vegetarian:

Whole Earth, 88 Sridonchai Road +66 53-282463 - open 11:00-21:00.

Bars in Chiang Mai and nightlife

Most of Chiang Mai's bars and pubs are located along Loi Kroh Road and Moon Muang Road. Here you can find small expat hangouts, go-go bars and sports bars. Most have pool tables and hostesses, along with music videos or various TV sports programs. A few of those similar bars are:

Bars and pubs

Crank Tavern, Bottom of Ratchapakinai Road (Near Chiang Mai Gate) +66 899 654722 is a beautifully recycled wood furnished bar with free Internet, great tunes and friendly staff. Now with what are becoming known as the best pub meals in Chiang Mai its a great place to have a meal and spend a relaxing evening. Also home of Crank Adventures (see above) for excellent mountain bike tours and bike hire.

Elephant Café, Kotchasarn Road (near Thapae Gate) +66 857 233440 - nice clean friendly bar with pool room, large TV & friendly hostesses.

Half Moon Pub, Soi 2 Moonmuang (around the corner from Topnorth Guesthouse), +66 853 205023, Open 10am till late, late. Sports bar with many regulars and tourists. Darts & pool area, big TV, really nice international cuisine, especially the burgers but also good Thai & Indian dishes. Excellent (can be loud) music, friendly atmosphere and beautiful women.

Number One, Loi Kroh Road Soi 1 - friendly bar with free Internet and pool table. Plenty of talkative expats and pretty hostesses.

Tuskers, Chaiyaphum Soi 1, +66 871 804 665, - bar and restaurant with a touch of Thai style and international standards of service, free pool table and live sports.

There are also some bars with a different atmosphere:

Café Souvannaphoum, 20/1 Ratchamankha Road, (near Moon Muang) +66 53 903-781. A decent wine bar with comfortable seating and relaxing music, great escape from the busy street life, open M-Sa: 17:00 - 01:00.

The Pub 189 Huay Kaew Road (near Amiri Rincome Hotel) +66 53-211550, long established olde worlde English pub in the true tradition, has had a makeover and extended the bar and the restaurant but kept its charm. Great selection of food and drinks, including roast dinners on Sundays. Has an outside area where you can sit and enjoy the tranquility of a tropical garden, and has recently added bungalows for those wishing to linger longer.

West of the city center, the area around Nimmanhaemin Road is a popular hangout for younger Thais, perhaps due to its proximity to Chiang Mai University. The pubs, as they are called here, tend to straddle a fine line between bar, restaurant and nightclub, and feature loud music interspersed with live bands fronted by musicians who are most likely hitting the books in the daytime. Tourists looking for something racier are better off staying in the east side of town.

BangRak, Nimmanhaemin Road Soi 6 - hangout spot for a primarily student crowd. Weekend nights are standing-room only and the clubbing atmosphere is complete; weekday nights are a little slower. Well air-conditioned, and no cover charge, but you'll be expected to purchase some drinks. Open 18:00-01:00.

Mo'C Mo'L, Huay Kaew Road - pub and restaurant near Chiang Mai University, there are many zone in the restaurant: coffee shop, dining outdoor near the small pond, dining indoor with live music.

Monkey Club, Nimminheimin Road Soi 9 +66 53-226997 -8 - another hot spot for the students, with a variety of live music. Open 17:00-01:00.

Warm Up Bar This chain bar / restuarnt / club has several venues in Thailand. The venue in Chang Mai is a lot less touristy and the dancehall packed to the brim of Thai students.

Live music

The area along the east bank of the Mae Ping River on Charoenrat Road is famous for jazz, rock, pop, Thai and country and western live music, along with restaurants serving Thai, western, and Chinese food. Coming from the center of the city, just walk from the night bazaar across the Narawatt Bridge, from where all the restaurants can be seen along the river on the left.

Most bands in Chiang Mai play for about an hour, and then move on to do the same at another restaurant or pub, so don't be surprised to see the same band twice if you switch venues.

La Brasserie, 37 Charoenrat Road +66 53-241665 - this riverside venue is not famous for its food, but the music is great, and there's a good selection of cocktails and spirits. Sit outside in the lush garden setting where acoustic guitar is played (19:00-midnight) or inside at the bar and catch the famous Took and Friends (23:00-02:00) who play old Hendrix, Dylan, Marley, Stevie Ray Vaughn, and other favorites.

Tha Chang Jazz Club, 25 Charoenrat Road (next to Gallery Restaurant) +66 53-248601 - good for a drink any day, but best visited on Saturdays for live jazz.

The Chiang Mai Riverside Restaurant, 9-11 Charoenrat Road +66 53-243239 Everyone who has been to Chiang Mai eats at least once here. There is a large menu of Thai and western food. If you want a good homemade hamburger, this is a good place to get one. The live music starts around 19:00 with dinner music from the Eagles, Beatles, or soft jazz. Starting at 21:00, the music changes to more rock and pop songs. Full bar service serving wine, beer, and spirits are available. The Chiang Mai Riverside restaurant gets very crowded, so get here early to get a table. The Riverside also offers a nightly dinner cruise departing at 20:00 for 70 baht/person extra.

The Garden Chiang Mai, 139, Ratchadamnoen Road, Well stocked bar, great food and a beautiful garden. The Chiang Mai Blues Club meets here to play at 20:30 on Wednesdays, and there's also live music on Sundays during the walking street market which is right outside the gates.

The Good View, 13 Charoenrat Road +66 53-241886, Thai and western varieties of rock, jazz, pop and country music entertain in the evening. Their extensive menu offers more than 150 Thai, Chinese, and western dishes, including curries, noodles, rice, and pizza. Soft drinks and a full bar serving wine, beer, and spirits are available. Again, if you want a good, riverside-view table get there early.

The North Gate, inside the city moat and east of Chang Puak Gate, The North Gate has easily become one of the most popular, regular destinations for Chiang Mai's young ex pat community. With nightly jazz performances starting around 9:30 PM with different performers and occasional guests from the audience, the North Gate offers something unique to the often repetitious Chiang Mai live music scene. In addition to nightly music performed by true lovers and technicians of jazz, the North Gate offers a variety of drinks not normally found within Chiang Mai- notably red and white wine, mojitos, and other mixed drinks. The staff is quick and efficient and prices are damn cheap!

Nightclubs

Bubbles

B1, Porn Ping Tower, 46 Charoen Prathet Road. Would be just another cheesy hotel disco if not for some good DJs and enthusiastic crowds; now it's a cheesy, packed and fun hotel disco on weekend nights. Cover charge 100 baht including one drink; open until 02:00.

Discovery - opposite Kad Suan Kaew shopping centre and Lotus Pang Suan Kaew Hotel. Is a small club with live band, DJ and huge screens showing music videos, good for drinking nights and letting loose. Bring ID/passport as they can be strict with entry especially on weekend nights.

Spicy is a hectic after hours place with good drinks, dancing and lots of local good looking girls looking to party - be warned, they almost always ask for money.

Gay Bars

Chiang Mai is a popular destination for gay tourists and many Gay people have retired here. It has a vibrant Gay scene, highlights include:

Friendship Bar, Thapae Road Soi 1 (between the Peak Climbing wall and D2 Hotel). Small oudoor bar popular with Thai gays, ex pats and tourists alike. 50 baht up for small beer.

Glass Onion, Room 1 project, 61, Nimmanhaemin Rd., Telephone: 66(0)53218479. Sophisticated wine bar popular with gays, opposite "Warm Up"

Golden Ball (Bon Tong in Thai), Santitham Road (At Junction with Tewan Road), Chang Phuak Tel: 66(0)53406043, Northern Thai style outdoor bar and restaurant. Local prices: Drinks start from 45 baht for a large Chang beer. Packed with very friendly staff and fun atmosphere.

Festivals in Chiang Mai

Songkran Festival Chiang Mai Thailand - The big splash!

Every year, around the middle of April, a mayhem of water breaks out in Chiang Mai. Tools are downed, traffic grinds to a halt and everyone takes to the streets for the world's biggest water fight. And what a fight it is; vendors appear with their arsenals of brightly coloured water pistols, buckets and hoses, mass crowds descend on the city's moat, and the city gets drenched from head to toe.

This is Songkran, the mother of all excuses for Thais to party and enjoy themselves. And as the hot season reaches its zenith, with daytime temperatures into the 100s, Thailand beckons the rainy season with a cooling off celebration of water. What was once a symbolic tradition has now turned into a week-long commercial riot of water.

Of course it's a great time for tourists to be here too. Nowhere else in the world can you experience such an emphatic celebration which epitomises a country where fun ('sanook') is the operative word. It becomes impossible to go anywhere without getting wet. In fact, some people, those lacking a sense of fun, even have to leave town! On every street corner, in every suburb, lurks a mischievous bunch of kids with a large bucket and some spray pumps. If you're on a motorbike or in a tuk tuk, expect to be drenched before you even reach your destination. The only remedy is to join in the fun and get a water pistol of your own.

The centre of all the fun is the square mile of the old town, and Chiang Mai's ancient moat lends itself perfectly to the occasion. At once, it becomes a massive swimming pool, reservoir and water-fighting venue, as people line the streets and grassy banks that flank these pretty stretches of water. Water taps are installed all over the central area but you can also join a crowd outside one of the bars or restaurants that may have provided a larger bowser of water. In fact, Chiang Mai is probably the most popular place in Thailand for participating in Songkran and its layout is perfect, which is why so many Thais arrive from Bangkok and other regions to join the fun.

Songkran is the Thai celebration of New Year, a time when people return to their hometowns and families get together in a show of goodwill. Traditionally it's also an opportunity to spring clean the house thoroughly as the long, dusty dry season gives way to rain. And for a country where rain is essential for the rice crop, a festival to invite the rains is an important one indeed. The water element once started out with a lustrating of the Buddha at the local temple and the gentle pouring of a 'little' water onto the shoulders of family members, elders and villagers, but today it involves plenty of fun and sometimes goes on for weeks in the rural parts.

But there is more to Songkran than water. There are processions and traditional blessing ceremonies centred at the local temples. Sand chedis are made as symbolic gestures to the Buddha, and in the bigger towns, a host of events take place. In Chiang Mai, this includes a parade of floats, a beauty contest, religious rites, plenty of singing, traditional costume displays and, as always in Thailand, plenty of food. It's also a time to pay respect to the village elders and, typically, one representative from each family will do the rounds of the oldest and most respected people, offering them food hampers and receiving a blessing in return.

For Thai's, Songkran is also a chance to 'cool off' and let down their otherwise reserved demeanour. Cultural protocols are flushed down the drain as girls turn out in skimpy water-drenched outfits, boys go bare-chested, gay people 'come out' in a variety of outrageous costumes and ladyboys flaunt their 'too-perfect' waistlines. Everyone is game during Songkran regardless of the usual hierarchy of status, and you have a licence to drench anyone. When foreign guests join in, the locals are particularly pleased and you'll find yourself welcomed by a group, 'initiated' with a bucket of iced water down your back, and supplied with an unending supply of food, drink and...yes, water.

A final word of warning: all sense of organisation breaks down during Songkran in Chiang Mai. Traffic is gridlocked and travelling by motorcycle is likely to leave you soaked, so don't plan too much. Keep your camera and electronic gadgets in sealed waterproof bags and don't lose your sense of humour; expect to be endlessly pelted by jovial, sometimes drunken, but mostly harmless people. If you are riding a motorbike, proceed slowly as roadside pranksters have a dangerous habit of throwing buckets-full of water in the faces of oncoming riders. Luckily the water throwing ceases after nightfall.

Programme of events

Wednesday 11th:
Ceremony honouring the Phra Singh Buddha - Wat Pra Singh (7pm).

Thursday 12th:
Salutation ceremony - Three Kings' Monument (10am).

Friday 13th:
Old Lanna Parade - from TAT office to Thapae Gate. (start 7:30am).
Official opening of Chiang Mai Songkran - Thapae Gate (8am).
Ladies with umbrellas on bicycles parade contest - Thapae Gate (8:30am).
Procession and lustrating of the Buddha - Governor's residence/Thapae road (2pm).
Cultural performances - Wat Phra Singh (7pm - midnight).
Beginning of water fights - city wide (all day).

Saturday 14th:
Sand carrying procession - Thapae road (1pm - 2pm).
Water fights - city wide (all day).

Sunday 15th:
Parade of traditional costume to pay respects to the governor - Thapae road (1pm).
Water fights - city wide (all day).

Additional activities throughout the festival

Building the world's largest sand stupa - Wat Jet Lin (10am - 11am daily).

Lustrating the Buddha, traditional performances, costume contest for children - Buddhist Association Hall (1pm - 2pm daily).

Traditional drumming and dancing, stupa building - Wat Loke Molee (6pm - 11pm daily).

Merit making and performances by local artists, Lanna games - Wat Phra Singh (1pm - 9pm daily).

Loi Kratong

festival (November) is a lovely '"festival of light" where the sins of the past year are washed down the river by floating small '"kratongs" (banana leaf bouquets with lighted candles and incense) down the river, or by launching '"khoms" (glowing paper balloons) into the night sky. The sight of hundreds of these dotted about the sky and waterways adds magic to this charming and peaceful celebration.

The Flower Festival

in February closes off the entire south-western corner of the moat, as Thailand's extraordinary variety of tropical species, including near-perfect orchids, are displayed in a tapestry of colour.

Makkha Puja Day

is also held in February and is one of the most important Buddhist celebrations on the calendar. Make you way to Wat Chedi Luang to witness the hundreds of people walking around the grounds in a peaceful candlelit procession.

Chinese New Year

takes place in in late January or early February and involves '"lion dances" and fireworks in the best traditions of the Chinese descendents in Thailand. The Chinese City pillar near the Flower Market is a locus of this celebration.

Khao Phansaa (July)

is a low-key observation of the coming of the Buddhist lent, in which monks traditionally go into retreat during the rainy season. This is a good time to witness a Buddhist ordination.

The King's and Queen's birthdays

(5th of December and 12th of August, respectively) are also mothers' and fathers' day in Thailand and the whole country demonstrates their respect by erecting beautifully decorated huge pictures and murals to their revered monarchy. If you have a chance to visit a Thai school, Wai Khru Day (June) is a super display of student-teacher appreciation and respect.

Khantoke evenings

Arguably the best way to enjoy Northern Thai culture is to spend an evening at a Khantoke dinner. Increasingly popular with tourists, these events have evolved into a superb display of the best of Thai culture; including a sumptuous spread of Northern Thai food (served in traditional-style at floor level), classical Thai dancing from exquisitely dressed dancers, and traditional Northern and other Thai music played on unique Asian instruments. Several of these venues are now situated out in the suburbs and take place in beautifully constructed traditional pavilions. Your hotel or guesthouse can organise this activity for you. There is also a free cultural show every evening at the Night Market.

Shopping in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is a shopping paradise, simply because there is such a wide range of unusual goods at knock down prices. The quality is variable but the value for money undeniable, and most leave with much fuller luggage than when they arrived. When visiting Thailand it's advisable to leave your shopping for Chiang Mai, it's considered one of the cheapest places in Thailand and getting about town is easy.

Chiang Mai is one of the handicraft centres of Asia, and not surprisingly many of the market traders from overseas come here to source their goods. Silk, silver, clothing, rattan, ceramics, interior décor, antiques, Buddhist art, lacquer and neilloware—the list of options is endless for shopping in Chiang Mai.

The centre of shopping is undoubtedly the Night Bazaar, which takes up several blocks every evening along Chang Klan road. Here you can wander among the countless pavement stalls and arcades admiring the beautifully crafted Northern Thai handicrafts. The more serious can head out to the huge handicraft wholesalers at San Kamphaeng and check out Borsang village with its colourful umbrellas. Baan Tawai to the south of the city is a busy working carving centre with some exquisite pieces on display and the best selection of antiques.

The Night Bazaar

Famous throughout Thailand, the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar is perhaps the best place in the Kingdom to stock up on souvenirs and tourist-friendly clothing and accessories. It takes up several blocks along Chan Klan road with its locus at the intersection with Loi Kroh road - an area now being colonised by Starbucks and McDonalds. Most of the stalls here display clothes, but many also hawk fake goods, luggage, Thai handicrafts, souvenirs, jewelry, footwear and more. The real stuff can be found in the Vieng Ping centre, which is a two level gallery that houses better quality wares (and slightly more expensive). This is a prime attraction in Chiang Mai and no visit to the city is complete without a night spent here. There is also a food court here where you are treated to classical Thai dancing accompanied by a Thai ensemble, as well as numerous restaurants, fast food outlets, coffee shops and ice cream parlours in the area. Make sure you have your bargaining boots on!

Warorot market

Located beside the river at the end of Chiang Moi road, this is the largest and most central of the markets in the city. It still retains its traditional feel and caters to both locals and visitors alike, with a ground floor full of food stuffs and good value clothing on the mezzanine levels. It’s also a good place to pick up fabrics in the adjacent streets. It’s a ten minute walk from the central Tapae road and well worth a visit during the day. By night the bottom end of Chiang Moi road becomes an evening flea market.

Ton Lamyai - the flower market

Adjacent to Wororot is a line of flower shops on the opposite side of the road from the riverfront. Flowers may not be high on a traveller’s shopping list but its worth a look to gasp at the counter-inflationary cost of a dozen roses (about US$5!). Here you’ll find the city’s greatest concentration of kratoeys (ladyboys) who seem to naturally gravitate towards flower arranging! Both arrangements and fresh flowers are widely available.

Somphet Market

This smaller food market is regularly ‘discovered’ by tourists wandering the old town as it sits beside the eastern flank of the moat on Moon Muang road (soi/lane 6) and it’s a genuine and fascinating glimpse at live food for sale. The cookery schools like to bring students here to verse them in ingredients. It’s only a five minute walk from Tapae Gate, northwards.

Muang Noi Market

This is the fresh fruit centre of Chiang Mai and it is here that restaurants and locals will come to source the best pineapples, bananas, watermelons and more to make those delicious and cheap smoothies they all offer. It’s found near the American Consulate, beside the river a little north of the city, but within a 10 minute walk of Wororot Market.

Anusarn Market

Essentially part of the extended Night Bazaar precinct area, the Anusarn market is a large open area set back from Chang Klan street, five minutes walk from the central intersection of the Night Market area. This is a food market with local produce and Northern delicacies, but has some wonderful seafood restaurants among others, open in the evenings until about 10:30pm. It servers hungry night shoppers well and is a welcome respite from the busier main street.

Wualai Street Market

Wualai street is traditionally the silversmith and jewellery area of the city but these days almost anything is sold here from light fittings to traditional herbs. Recently they began a Saturday evening market here which is similar to the Walking Street and a fun evening activity where you will find buskers, food vendors and plenty of art. Wualai street runs diagonally from the Chiang Mai gate on the South flank of the moat.

Local markets

To escape the overly commercial and tourist feel of the city centre markets and witness a real suburban market, there are several you can easily find. Chang Phuak market is the nearest, and within walking distance but mostly sells trendy T-shirts and casual wear. It is located just north of the Chang Phuak gate on the Northern flank of the moat. For something more authentic, head towards the mountain along Suithep road, past the hospital on your right until it meets the canal road. Tucked away to your right at this intersection is Ton Payom market, which is open all day. If you travel along Huay Kaew road towards the university you will discover a popular night market after the super-highway intersection, which caters mainly for Thai students. Further on, where the road intersects with the canal road, head down the small lane that is beside the 7-eleven a you’ll find a delightful dusk market with fresh produce.

Khamtien plant market

Plants may not be something you can take home in your suitcase but Thailand boasts some wonderful tropical species and gardening is popular. This market, located behind Tesco Lotus on the Super-highway (north), is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon browsing the colourful array of nature’s finest. Many of the shops have created enchanting secret Balinese styled gardens, with ponds and fountains and plenty of greenery - a perfect escape from the concrete jungle of the downtown area.

JJ Market

This is one of the newest markets in the city, a purpose built crafts centre for the city’s distinctive bohemian element to display all their curious wares. It’s located near Khamtien market and is open on weekends. Genuine Arts are offered here.

Borsang

Umbrellas are inextricably associated with Bo Sang where villagers have been engaged in their manufacture for at least 200 years. All materials - silk, cotton, sa paper (manufactured from the bark of the mulberry tree) and bamboo - are produced or found locally. Visitors to Borsang will see literally hundreds of designs and sizes of umbrellas ranging from the miniature to the gigantic.
Baan Tawai

Woodcarving is a traditional northern Thai art featured in numerous temples, while in modern times it has been increasingly used to embellish furniture-screens, chairs, tables, beds, indeed anything bearing a wooden surface, large enough to be carved-as well as in carved elephants, figurines, tableware and other popular items. Chiang Mai's Bantawai village in Hang Dong district is a leader in making furniture. Principal materials used include teak, rosewood and rattan. The development of Hang Dong has been a Chiang Mai success story. Not many years ago Hang Dong consisted of a couple of shop-fronts and factories stretching as far as the eye could see, but now showrooms as sophisticated as any in Europe line the street. Hang Dong is an importer's heaven. Eleven kilometers south of Chiang Mai.

Walking Streets

Walking Streets: Roads are closed to traffic and a festive vibe of shopping, eating, drinking and hanging out with friends are what draws the crowds to these events?

Kad Sum Murd (Midnight Market)
Kad Sum Murd, which means Midnight Market, takes place in front of Kad Suan Keaw department store on every Thursday to Saturday from 6 p.m.-11 p.m., it is lit up by candles creating a surreal shopping experience with a variety of cheap and cheerful products from northern Thailand.

The Wisdom of Lanna Arts & Craftsmen Walking Street
This market showcases art from 21 villages, including the Yong, a popular group from the north. The Yong are known for their unique handicraft techniques. They are famous for their elephant wood carvings, bamboo products, souvenirs, for drawing pictures on cloth, creating dolls made from cloth, and more. This fair is at Buak Kang, Sankamphaeng District, every Saturday from 4 p.m.-11 p.m., the fair covers a distance of four kilometres, offering a wonderful variety of ethnic products and exhibitions on these peoples ways of life.

Wualai Walking Street
At Wualai Road every Saturday from 5 p.m.- late. The famed old silver street sells souvenirs, silver products, home decor and more.

Ratchadamnoen Walking Street
At Tha Pae Gate and along Ratchdamnoen Road., every Sunday from 5 p.m.- midnight. The perfect place to spend a Sunday evening, shopping, drinking, eating, watching the crowd go by, enjoying buskers, sales, artists, etc. Nice vibe.
Nimmanhaemin

Great little area featuring such famous shops as Gong Dee Gallery, Wit's Collection and Gerard Collection, whose designs are becoming very famous in Bangkok and beyond. Perfect gift buying shops in a quaint little shaded area of the city. Some of the products include very original hand-painted ceramics, water hyacinth furniture, lacquer home décor items and much more. Not the cheapest area, but its boutique feel makes it very popular. West side of town, towards Chiang Mai University.

Tha Pae Area

In the city centre and where many of Chiang Mai's prestigious shops are located. It's a bit of a pain to find a parking space, but shops such as Living Space, Lost Heavens and Nova Collection are well worth visiting, each selling unique and beautiful products. There are also the general tourist shops selling silk, handbags, hill tribe artifacts, handicrafts and other great souvenirs.

Shopping Malls

Central Airport Plaza and Kad Suan Kaew are both massive shopping malls, a cool and different venue for summer or monsoon season shopping. Lots of teen knickknacks as well as brand name outlets.

Thai massage Chiang Mai

The art of Thai massage has been refined during hundreds of years of practice and passed down through generations. In Chiang Mai massage is alive and well and enjoyed by hundreds of visitors every day. The methods used today date back to Indian Ayurvedic practice developed initially by Buddhist monks nearly 2000 years ago. All across Thailand, particularly in tourist areas such as Chiang Mai, you will find massage shops.

Here in Chiang Mai, spending an hour or two having your muscles kneaded, pushed, pulled and relaxed is an invigorating experience and banishes all the aches and pains you get from travelling, walking and sitting on long bus or air journeys. When in Thailand, this is one experience you should certainly indulge in, and the whole two-hour experience costs less than a price of a gym workout in your home country.

Thai massage

which involves vigorously treating more than 100 areas of the body, using hand pressure and the masseuses own body to apply forces that aim to work pressure points, and re-align energy lines in the body. Ideally, this process takes at least two hours and can be a little uncomfortable at times, but leaves you feeling very relaxed.

Oil Massage

is gentler than Thai massage and involves deep muscle tissue treatment using specially blended therapeutic oils. Of course it leaves you a little oily afterwards, requiring a shower to freshen up, but can be a very sensual experience.

Foot massage

works the internal organs of the body through manipulation of pressure points on the soles of your feet in much the same way as reflexology. This is another skill that has been passed down through the ages and can be quite effective in producing a mild detox effect on the body. At the Night Bazaar and Sunday Walking Street in Chiang Mai foot massage is widely available and a popular relief for tired feet.

Many places also offer massages specialising in specific parts of the body, such as the hands and head.

Thai massage focuses on 10 energy points in the body, known as 'sen' though there are over 70,000 recorded sen in all. It differs from other forms of massage in that there is a focused spiritual aspect involved, and a properly trained masseuse will conduct a short prayer before commencing in order to focus their energy on the task.

Aspects of yoga are incorporated in the massage, bending and twisting the torso to 'reset' the muscular-skeletal position. The procedure is a slow and patient one, with most attention given to areas which are most muscular, such as the thighs. There arent many 'brutal' movements in this form.

The most active tool in a masseuses arsenal is the thumb, however, as with the fingers, there is indirect pressure applied and the ball of the digit is used rather than the tip. A correctly trained Thai massage practitioner will avoid sensitive areas such as the knees. If you have ailments or chronic problems sensitive to body pressure, you are advised to receive your massage from a professional spa, where the masseuse will usually quiz you beforehand so as to avoid anything painful and harmful. Its also not advised to go for a massage directly after eating.

Thai massage shops in Chiang Mai

In Chiang Mai, you can find plenty of massage shops liberally scattered throughout the tourist centres, advertising themselves with a large reflexology diagram outside. Some are them are very simple, consisting of a couple of mattresses on the floor, with clean linen, though this doesnt suggest the massage will be inferior. In general, older women are the most experienced and skilled at giving massage. Those that display a selection of young ladies outside are less likely to give you a proper Thai massage.

Hotels and spas offer a more luxurious environment, with nicely decorated private cubicles, scented clothing and soft music, as well as more of a guarantee that the masseuse is a good one. However, they are typically two or three times more expensive and not necessarily any better. Usually a Thai massage will cost 120 baht an hour and a foot or oil massage is 200 baht an hour in the small shops.

Although there are plenty to choose from, we have recommended a few for you. When selecting a massage shop, look out for the certificates on the wall indicating the masseuses have been properly trained. Some locals have a favourite place they regularly frequent, often due to the friendly character of the masseuse. Most masseuses are ladies. Foot massages are always offered at the walking street market on Sundays, and at other popular events.

Lek Chiaya Massage: is a well established place, centrally located, and the proprietor, Lek, has several decades experience teaching and giving deep tissue massage. 79/1 Ratchadamnoen rd, near Tapae Gate, Chiang Mai. Tel: 0-5327-8325

Baan Nit Massage: is the domain of Nit, a highly experienced and knowledgeable old lady whose methods of deep tissue and herbal massages have been passed down through many generations of Chinese healers. Soi 2, Chaiyaphum rd (near northeastern moat corner), Chiang Mai.

Vieng Ping Massage: is a small, clean, professional place with experienced masseuses, under Swiss management, slightly upmarket. Soi 2, Tapae rd, Chiang Mai (look for sign halfway down on the north side of the street).

Lets Relax: is an upmarket place near the Night Bazaar, offering a range of spa treatments, or simple massage at premium rate. Chiang Mai Pavilion, Chang Klan rd, Night Bazaar. Tel: 0-5381-8494

The Old Chiang Medicine Hospital: can be a little difficult to find but is perhaps the most professional place in the city and has a full training course with expert and very experienced massage practitioners. Located on Hang Dong road, across from the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre; tel: (053) 27 5085.

The Best Massage: boasts a large staff of very professional masseuses and private rooms for everyone. It's always busy despite charging double the rate of the small outfits, but worth it. Located in car park between Porn Ping Towers hotel and Vieng Ping Night Bazaar centre. (053) 904 666.

Kavilek Spa: is a very respectable place which is popular with ex-pats because of its location in suburban western Chiang Mai. It has a large professional staff, comfortable facilities and a lovely interior, yet charges reasonable rates. Nimminhemin rd, near Amari Rincome Hotel. (053) 895 187.

Spas in Chiang Mai

There are many options for day spas in Chiang Mai, ranging from the full pamper luxury treatment, to more down to earth treatment with matching prices. In fact, Chiang Mai is an ideal place to indulge yourself, it’s laid back and cheap and you’ll certainly want to stay longer.

The Oasis spa has expanded over the past two years to become one of the leading spa groups in Chiang Mai and now has three well-appointed branches with one conveniently located in the old town beside Wat Phra Singh, another near Thapae Gate in the Amora Rydges and a third in the Nimmenhemin area. Open from 10am to 10pm, they offer a relaxing experience in peaceful environments, treating you with therapeutic herbs and oils, and using traditional and modern techniques and remedies to help you unwind. Facilities include a jacuzzi and steam bath and they offer a range of packages to suit all budgets and time scales.
Tel. (053) 227 495

For something in between, try Ban Sabai on Charoen Prathet road. This Chiang Mai spa offers a relaxing retreat in stylish rooms, with affordable prices in a convenient location. Call +66 (0) 53 285 204 for bookings. They also have a resort spa outside of the city in San Phi Sua, if you need to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Ban Sabai Spa Villa +66 (0) 53 854 778

The new Chur Medical Spa on Changmoi road has treatments that work on your cellulite, reduce stress or firm your body. Experienced staff will give you consultations pre- and post-treatment. For bookings, call +66 (0) 53 233 923.

Spas in Chiang Mai don’t come much better than Angsana Spa, located at the Green View International Resort just outside the city on the Chiang Mai-Mae Rim road. If you really want to be pampered, with a matching price tag, try this one. It is a sister brand of the award-winning Banyan Tree resort and spa group. Here, you can spend a day being treated like royalty - you can do a treatment with a friend too, as they have double treatment rooms as well! Reservations are a must and the spa will provide free pick-up Tel. +66 (0) 53 298 249.
Email: spa-greenviewchiangmai@angsana.com

Tao Garden Health Spa and Resort has a good detox and slimming program, including chi organ massage, karsai genital detox massage, deeper skin detox and a herbal skin detox. Their scientific approach to health is blended with a natural environment and they are located outside of Chiang Mai in a lovely natural setting.
Tel: (053) 495 596.

However, for those who are more interested in learning about how to give spa treatments or Thai massages, there are also courses available. These can range from one-day "experience" type courses to full-blown certification courses that can take up to three months to complete. A very popular and renowned massage school is the Thai Massage School of Chiang Mai (TMC), with two locations next to the Chiang Mai University Art Museum or on Chiang Mai-Maejo road. It has a course to suit your interest, budget and time. A full accreditation course is also available. The massage school also offers massages - it is sometimes possible to get free massages from the students as well - but these have to be booked in advance. The school can be reached at +66 (0) 53 854 330.

IMPORTANT CALLS

Airport (053) 270-222 to 5
Emergency Call 191, 1155
Highway Police (053) 242-441, 193
Railway Station (053) 245-363 to 4
TAT Office (053) 248-604 to 6
Tourist Police (053) 248-974
Export Promotion Center (053) 221-376, 216-350 to 1
Immigration Office (053) 277-510, 282-532